I’m currently working on my filament test
series which makes me print several exotic materials that are not as easy to handle as
PLA. Many of these, like nylon, polycarbonate or
TPUs need to be stored really dry that they don’t absorb moisture. Today, I’ll be showing you, how I built
a simply and cheap filament box, which you can use to store your filaments in and even
directly print out of. Guten Tag everybody, I’m Stefan and welcome
to CNC kitchen. Moisture is a major concern when it comes
to 3D printing, because working with dry filament makes the difference between a successful
print or a lot of problems. I gotta be honest, but I store most of my
PLA filaments on a holder here in my office and didn’t really have an issue with these
so far because once, PLA isn’t printed that hot and second it doesn’t absorb moisture
as quickly. But as soon as you get into more uncommon
materials the storage location can become an issue. I store my ABS an PETG filaments in a big
box where I added a couple of these nylon bags filled with silica gel. When I use a spool I just take it out of the
box and put them on the normal spool holder of my printers and that works totally fine. I’m getting more and more into printing
nylons or polycarbonate. For most of these it’s essential to keep
them dry even during printing, because even a day out in normal ambient air might result
in a print that is more foam in the end instead of solid plastic. Also PVA, the water soluble support material,
is very susceptible to moisture and even though it might be printing well for a while, your
print results will improve if you keep it dry all the time.
and even attach a Bowden tube to it to directly print out of the box. We only need a few simple things which are
a plastic container that is big enough to hold a couple of rolls of filament, and a
bunch of silica gel perls. These can be purchased on Amazon or Ebay in
larger quantities. This is pretty much the same stuff that is
also in the silica gel packages you well know, but the pearls contain an indicator so they
turn green, as soon as they get saturated with water. A kilo is plenty for a box of 3 rolls. The nice thing is that you can reuse these
as often as you like. Once you see, that the moisture level in your
box doesn’t go down as far anymore and the silica gel changes its color, you put everything
on a baking tray and put it into your oven at around 110°C and open the door from time
to time, to remove the moist air from the oven. After around an hour, the pearls are dry again
and changed their color back to orange. Just leave them in the oven until they almost
cooled down again and then put them back into the box. If anybody wonders, I also tried using silica
cat litter which didn’t work for me at all. Maybe I would have needed to dry it before. I wouldn’t recommend to only use bags of
silica gel that you gathered from your filament packs, because the amount of material they
contain is so little, that they will hardly last for a longer period of time. And, since you can’t judge if they are still
okay or not it’s hard to tell if they are still working. This brings me to the next item on the list. I have one of these cheep hygrometers in all
of my filament boxes to check the environmental conditions. This is nice for the big box where I don’t
directly see the silica gel, but I also noticed that the moisture level will rise already
when the silica gel just started to change color. Then we will need a piece of PVC tube which
holds the spools and two 3D printed holders. If your tube diameter doesn’t match mine,
just scale the model accordingly. Then we need a Teflon tube that is used to
guide the filament from the box to the printhead so that it has no change to pick up moisture. In order to connect these to the box I used
commercially available Bowden connectors, but you can also print one out on your own. You can find links to all of these items down
in the description. Start by grabbing the biggest roll you want
to add to your box and mark the location where the tube needs to be. I didn’t center the holder because this
will result in a straighter filament path with different roll sizes and amount of material
that is still left. Now take your brackets and mark the locations
where you will need to drill. I used a wood drill, since, with its tip,
is way easier to start a hole with in the plastic. Then also drill a hole in the right size where
the Bowden connectors shall go later. I drilled two holes in the upper part of the
box so that I can use the second one later for the storing position. Now just bolt the brackets to the box. If you want to be extra thorough you can add
a foam seal to the lid but the amount of silicagel that is in the box can easily handle small
leakages over longer periods of time. Make sure that your box has some kind of clips
so close the lid properly. When I bought mine at IKEA, the clips were
out of stock, so I just printed a couple. Pour in a bunch of silica gel and you’re
all set. Now you can simply add your precious rolls
of filament to the box and store them in there very dry. Mine goes down to below 10% in a couple of
hours and dries out bad filament only in a matter of days. Even though the silica gel pearls look clean,
I was able to spot some dust after adding them to the box. Since you don’t want that in your nozzle
just add one of these universal filament dust cleaners inside the box. When I don’t use the box, I close the connectors
with specifically designed plugs, but you can also just use two small pieces of Teflon
tube which you seal at one end. Before starting a print, slide the material
through the Bowden tube and feed it to your printer just as normal. Make sure that you don’t have too much drag,
and if so check your Bowden tube and dust filter. Also make sure that the Bowden tube is long
enough and maybe even guide it somehow, that it doesn’t interfere with your print. When I’m done printing, I either remove
to whole Bowden tube, or I just feed the end into the second connector so I can easily
load it the next time without needing to open the box. That’s it. This is a very convenient solution for me
now if I want to print with Nylon, PVA or similar. Even drying bad filament with this box works
great. You can find links to all of the items needed
below. If you enjoyed the video, then please give
it a thumbs up, subscribe to the channel and consider supporting me on Patreon. Take a look at my other videos if you want
to learn more about 3D printing. Thanks for watching, auf wiedersehen, and
I’ll see you next time!

Filament Dry Box || How to properly store and 3D print Nylon, PC, TPU, PVA…
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76 thoughts on “Filament Dry Box || How to properly store and 3D print Nylon, PC, TPU, PVA…

  • February 2, 2018 at 7:46 pm
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    did anyone try salt as moisture collector?

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 8:12 pm
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    do we really need another "filament dry box" video? Why do you copy Thomas Sanladerer's videos? You started out with some good video ideas but now its all just redone videos from other channels and then you don't even credit them

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 8:20 pm
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    @4:05 looks like you've got some bed adhesion problems! 😉

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 8:24 pm
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    I love your videos!!!!! Freundlichen Grussen, Huib Schippers

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 8:42 pm
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    5:05 Ahhh Smiagol

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 8:46 pm
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    Aie aie aie.. 21 hours too late ^^
    Richard Horne just did this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvTTQqqWIWA&t=0s

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 9:25 pm
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    Nice Video. 🙂
    But do you think it is worth it to buy one of those instead of the reusable Silicat? https://www.pearl.de/a-NC4809-4320.shtml?query=Luftentfeuchter
    I use a Drypak with reusable Silicat but my Dad want a electronic Solution. (I don't know why)
    What would you recommend?

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 9:37 pm
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    What tube do you use?

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 9:46 pm
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    Humidity will still get into a thin non-sealable container. I like your effort, but must get a box that can SEAL.. but thanks for video!

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 10:04 pm
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    Thank you for your amazing work! To avoid having to open the box when switching filament, would a longer plug be able to hold a stub of filament and prevent backlash? Perhaps a few cm of hollow with small teeth toward the end might work? lol, pepper-shaped filament retainer plugs…

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 10:06 pm
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    the amazon link to the Silica Gel/Desiccant doesn't work

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 10:17 pm
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    Great video Stefan 😀

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 10:40 pm
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    Das farbige Silica gel ist Krebs erregend! Das bedeutet das beim trocknen in dein offen, der offen mit den Krebs ergebenden Stoffen kontaminiert ist!!! Nicht nachmachen…

    Reply
  • February 2, 2018 at 11:21 pm
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    Another great video. Keep them coming!

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 12:55 am
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    where to find clips for storage box.

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 1:14 am
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    110c? Bake them on the heated bed?

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 1:38 am
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    If you use the 45l plastic container from IKEA, you can fit two rows of filament. I can fit around 8-10.

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 1:57 am
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    That’s a nice setup! I need to setup for my TPU..

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 6:55 am
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    What is the blue gadget attached to the x-axis motor on the Prusa?

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 8:39 am
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    Sebastian made a very true comment. Use Cabalt and DMF free silica gel, because some indicators are potentially toxic and carcinogenic! Replaced the link in the description with non-indicating silica gel. Health goes first! Just use the hygrometer to judge if the desiccant is saturated or not. I'd make sure that the moisture in the box is below 20%.

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 8:41 am
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    Dry your silica gel in Microwave oven 2 x 6 minutes and it is fresh as new.

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 11:15 am
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    awesome as always!  one thing to look into getting contained silica. much easier and neater. don't have rip the whole thing apart to empty, dry and refill the unit, and it's generally out free.  I use EvaDry units. the have a heater and everything built in. turn color, pull the evaders unit, plug it in over night and then throw it right back into the box. Very handy that way with zero mess.

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 1:49 pm
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    Thanks for sharing 😀👍

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 3:16 pm
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    Can you share the stl (thingiverse) for the clips mentioned in 4:55 used to seal the SAMLA container

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 6:30 pm
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    So i don't need a dry box for pla?

    Reply
  • February 3, 2018 at 7:30 pm
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    Was under the impression that once your filament has picked up moisture the silica gel won't remove it, you need to put it in the oven. Is this not correct?

    Reply
  • February 4, 2018 at 12:23 am
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    Are you printing carbon fiber with stock nozzle on your prusa?

    Reply
  • February 4, 2018 at 8:03 am
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    Nice design and thorough explanation.

    Reply
  • February 4, 2018 at 7:26 pm
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    This is copied from Thomas Sanladerer. I was considering subscribing until now. Sorry, not sorry.

    Reply
  • February 4, 2018 at 7:26 pm
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    It's sad, too, your editing is great.

    Reply
  • February 6, 2018 at 6:48 am
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    You just earned a new follower.
    Love the video 🙂

    Reply
  • February 8, 2018 at 5:43 am
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    GAY!!

    Reply
  • February 9, 2018 at 9:13 pm
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    Du bist deutsch?

    Reply
  • February 12, 2018 at 5:14 pm
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    This is exactly what I needed to see! I was thinking how to build a dry box. Now I know exactly how to do it. Thanks for showing us how. And thanks for being awesome! 🙂
    now…. off to amazon to buy some stuff.

    Reply
  • February 25, 2018 at 11:08 pm
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    Excellent

    Reply
  • February 26, 2018 at 1:23 am
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    This appears awesome! Can't hold out to appreciate similar to this. Great job.

    Reply
  • March 2, 2018 at 8:06 pm
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    Great job, Stephan. You've just made one of the greatest video on the subject.

    Reply
  • March 8, 2018 at 8:22 am
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    Thank you very much for the quick tips. 😀
    Now I know how to build my printerbox.

    Danke für den Tipp. 😉

    Reply
  • March 10, 2018 at 2:21 am
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    Hallo, thanks for the tips and the good explained videos. 1 little question: where can i find the plug that you used to seal the box (min: 5:33)? It's the only part that i am missing to finish my Box. Danke im voraus

    Reply
  • March 19, 2018 at 11:11 am
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    Könntest Du mir die Thingiverse Nummer für die Deckelclipse der Box zum selberdrucken mitteilen. Danke im voraus.

    Reply
  • March 22, 2018 at 1:50 am
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    Some people who have dropped their cell phones in water have successfully absorbed moisture out of them by putting them in a bag of rice. Do you think it would have the same effect if you add rice instead of Silica Gel to the bottom of the filament dry box? If so, then it might save you a few dollars also.

    Reply
  • July 1, 2018 at 5:04 pm
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    at work we use a vacuum pump to dry out materials during storage. We use mainly resins but i think it can work also with filament spools.

    Reply
  • July 9, 2018 at 4:28 pm
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    Give us a bch adress to tip you. Is easier. Additionally it is possible to buy filament at 15% discount using purse.io by paying with bitcoin BCH

    Reply
  • July 28, 2018 at 4:40 am
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    Absolutely awesome!

    Reply
  • July 28, 2018 at 12:58 pm
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    Yet another great video and fantastic idea. Even though I'm just starting out in 3d printing I'm going have to make myself one

    Reply
  • August 13, 2018 at 10:04 pm
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    Thank you for this good idea. It inspired me to make one similar to yours.

    Reply
  • August 14, 2018 at 6:39 am
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    Unfortunately the Silica link doesn't work again..
    Thanks for the video 🙂

    Reply
  • August 15, 2018 at 1:55 am
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    Why do you store the filament in that orientation in the box? You loose space for potential more filament rolls for each box… I use the same IKEA box, Samla 22L, and I printed these, which you don't need to screw/bolt through the box (though it might be helpful to glue/silicon them in place) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1888463

    There is also this version https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752874

    And these clips remixed by me, from a great design I found on thingieverse also https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2216335
    so you only need 4 of them to close it properly. Requires about 16 cm build height.

    The box has PTFE connectors on both the inside and outside, but I didn't have any PTFE tubes connected at the time I took the latest picture 🙂

    Reply
  • August 19, 2018 at 7:58 am
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    Hi Stefan,
    Thanks a lot for your works.
    Is there a way to get all the components for the dry box in Europe?
    All the links refer to Amazon USA.
    Best regards.

    Reply
  • August 20, 2018 at 5:22 am
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    You are so adorably German. I am greatly enjoying watching your videos. 🙂

    Reply
  • August 27, 2018 at 4:41 pm
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    It seem that humidity is not factor #1 for brittle PLA:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgyutg9H94Q
    Please watch his experiment and subscribe to this guy!

    Drying will fix "filament bubling", but I'm still looking for a proven way to regenerate brittle filament.

    Alexandre, analytical technician from Québec, Canada

    Reply
  • September 16, 2018 at 8:16 am
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    Hello I really like your fillament test. Can I ask you to print 2 sets? First set do normally but the second one put in oven first. We are baking ABS injection molds at 80 C for hour witch really change its properties. It release stress from molding make it not to crack. I would like to know if it works on printed parts and different materials too.
    I Know there is lot of stres in the material after print.

    Reply
  • October 26, 2018 at 10:33 am
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    dont like u hair stale but u f** good

    Reply
  • November 1, 2018 at 9:12 pm
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    Branching out into printing with nylon, so THANK YOU for this.

    Reply
  • November 19, 2018 at 8:38 pm
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    Great tutorial indeed! The tip of using wood drill bits, alone, is worth enough for watching this video 🙂 … Thank you for sharing !

    Reply
  • November 26, 2018 at 1:07 am
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    what about using rice instead of silica? have you tried it?

    Reply
  • December 6, 2018 at 9:04 pm
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    You can dry the Silica Gel/Desiccant in the microwave oven.

    Reply
  • December 13, 2018 at 7:06 pm
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    can I use the gel contained in diapers or rice to replace the silica gel? Thank you for the teaching, Brazil's hugs.

    Reply
  • January 23, 2019 at 10:53 pm
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    Why u are copy known youtubers with your slogans? i hate that sooo much. all the youtube kids seems to be the same

    Reply
  • January 25, 2019 at 7:01 pm
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    Whoa…the silica gel dessicant is waste of time. I did this and the gel never indicated moisture for months. If you have a small tupperware box , that the air volume is minimal, and thus any moisture in that air is minimal. Just oven warm the box and the filmament, close it up, there is no way for water to get in.

    Reply
  • February 10, 2019 at 11:29 pm
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    Hi, have you considered trying this? https://www.micro-dehumidifier.com/membrane-selection/ solid state dehumidifier for enclosures

    Reply
  • February 24, 2019 at 3:19 pm
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    @
    CNC Kitchen do you have a link to the bowden plug?

    Reply
  • April 12, 2019 at 11:04 am
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    Hey man, hopefully you see this on the old video. https://www.filadry.com it's an inline filament dryer. It seems really interesting of a concept because of the much less space

    Reply
  • April 16, 2019 at 3:29 am
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    Do you know of a source for tubing and Bowden connectors for 3mm filament?

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 5:59 pm
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    Do I need to store fiberlogy fiberflex 40d like this???

    Reply
  • May 7, 2019 at 1:23 am
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    you can try to use the gels from beef jerky packs, plus its a challenge to get enough.. 😉

    Reply
  • May 10, 2019 at 3:29 pm
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    i am the only person where the filament doesnt fit inside the postet box?

    Reply
  • May 19, 2019 at 12:15 am
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    My idea to store filament dry with vacuum.
    https://youtu.be/KcY4j5zYW0Y

    Reply
  • June 20, 2019 at 4:27 pm
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    How does nylon hold up in moist environments after printed? Like making parts for kayak as an example.

    Reply
  • June 22, 2019 at 7:20 am
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    Super Idee – Halterung habe ich bereits gedruckt, ich frage mich aber, ob man die Rollen auch quer unterbringen kann, dann hätten mehr Rollen platz – notfalls müsste man hier mehrere Bowden-Anschlüsse unterbringen – was meinst du?

    Reply
  • July 28, 2019 at 1:43 pm
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    Your manner is so damn pleasant, Stefan. We could watch you for hours.

    Reply
  • August 5, 2019 at 1:59 am
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    I love it when he says Guten Tag!

    Reply
  • August 7, 2019 at 8:50 pm
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    It seems that the gene.us links are not working anymore. Any alternatives?

    Reply
  • September 1, 2019 at 7:32 pm
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    When printing the box lid clips, I should probably not use the PLA filament that came with the Creality CR-10s? When attempting to clip the box lid to the box there is a slight cracking sound emitted. Would a different filament type be better for this application? Oh, and I applied the weather seal (on the list) onto the underside of the box lid. Maybe that is the problem? Cheers!

    Reply
  • October 5, 2019 at 10:50 am
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    im about to do the same thing thanks Stephan! very nice tutorial:)

    Reply

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