First, take the side panel out and put the side panel at the safe place I am going to install a radiator at the front so I removed front fans and HDD trays at the bottom Now let’s see how the components would fit in the case by putting the components in the case temporarily A 360 radiator at the front… and another 360 at the top Oh… … as I suspected… I was planning to install radiators like this connecting them directly but as I suspected there is not enough room So I think I’ll have to install radiators facing the other ways which makes the loop more complicated But I can’t help it Put the front rad like this It’s a tight fit, But I think it’s doable Front radiator fans will be installed outside the chasis So I guess it will be okay fitting two 360s Let’s see how pump-reservoir combo will fit It will be very full but okay. Case is ready Let’s put waterblocks on the components now. I will use a CPU water block from Heatkiller for this build This block is a product of collaboration between a Korean vendor and the manufacturer The first think you have to do is removing the thermal paste already existing on the CPU I usually use cleaning papers It’s not regular wet wipes It’s special kind of cleaning papers with alcohol cleaner I’ve used these for a long time and had no problems Wipe the thermal paste off throughly Some people may clean the side of the CPU inside the CPU clip It’s not necessary to do so, just clean the surface of the CPU throughly I think it’s clean enough Let’s put a new coat of thermal paste on the CPU Some water blocks include thermal paste in the packaging but this block doesn’t include thermal paste So it’s better to prepare your own thermal paste before building a water cooled system Oh, before we put thermal paste Let’s test fit waterblock on the CPU first Because you’d want to put the block right after putting new thermal paste on the chip And please refer to your instructions and learn installation processes for your particular CPU socket Because different CPU sockets will require differnt mounting hardwares I am using a 2011 socket CPU so I don’t need additional backplate and only need bolts for installation If you’re using 115x sockets, you’d need a backplate according to the instruction Most waterblocks need a installation of additional backplates for 115x sockets In case of 2011 sockets usually the backplate is not needed. I tell you again, please read your instructions before Let’s prepare need hardware before applying the thermal paste because it’s advisable to install the waterblock right after applying thermal paste You just need to do what the instruction says.
It’s not that hard. It’s my first time using Heatkiller blocks it’s not that different from other blocks actually I need a metal washer… and a spring it says 2011 on the plastic bag, very kind let’s do a test fit before Hmm, so it goes like this I will assemble springs and washers beforehand The reason for installing the block right after applying the thermal paste is to prevent contamination nothing more And it’s said that you must not re-seat the block after you applied the thermal paste but I think it doesn’t make much difference if you redo it several times New blocks have protective films to protect the contact surface so don’t forget to remove them if you’re using a newly purchased block And if you’re re-using a used block, then remove existing thermal paste from the block I’ll remove the film Shiny! The block is ready Let’s apply TIM In case of 115x socket CPUs usually a amount similar to a rice grain is enough In case of 2011 sockets, which has a bigger CPU inside the heat spreader I tend to use more paste,
making a line in the middle It doesn’t make much difference after all If you look at the CPU block There are 2 ports, usually one in the more centered position Usually the centered one is a ‘in’ port and the other is ‘out’ port So if you have a particular loop in mind,
you have to consider the orientation of the block I’m an improvising kind of guy so I’ll just put the block this way so that the Heatkiller logo stays upright Put it gently… At first you just put bolts slightly in so that the block will stay in place When tightening the screws… When tightening the screws… you have to tighten the screws in cross pattern like this 1, 2, 3, 4 Because if you tighten one side first then the force won’t be distributed evenly and the block might lose contact on the one side So to prevent it you screw them slowly in a crossing pattern You don’t want to tighten the screws all the way in the first pass You should screw the screws in slowly in a cross pattern And waterblocks usually have thumb screws Which is to prevent you from using any tools to tighten the screws If your system shows unsatisfactory temperatures you may need to loosen or tighten the screws slightly because too much or too less tension can result in inadequate thermal transfer I think it’s securely installed [Next Episode : Installing a MB block]